Thursday, February 25, 2010

What was that?


It's been quite awhile since I started crocheting that amorphous blob, and thankfully, it turned out quite different than it started. When you last saw it, here's what it looked like:
This was part of my first attempt at making a flared, racerback tank top. I experimented using Mary Jane Hall's graduated stitch method, which creates volume through increasing stitch size instead of adding more stitches. I quickly realized that doesn't really work here, because the piece looks choppy. The narrower edge is the neck edge and the wider edge is the flared hem of the top. Continuing on, here's the front I ended up with:

I know you're thinking how awesome (and by awesome I mean terrible) my color choices are, and before you judge me and never read my blog again, let me tell you these are just scrap yarn pieces I was experimenting with. Here's the back:

But what good are a front and back without straps? That was the real challenge in this garment. I wanted to make a racerback, and made several different variations to attach to the back neckline, but I couldn't get the shape I wanted using the vertical stitch method I chose for this project. As is usually the case, I realized I had to think more simply. So I crocheted a long strip and experimented. Though it's not a true racerback, the straps worked well. Once I had all the elements, I bought some nice yarn to make a real sample. I chose Berroco Pure Pima, a lightweight (#3) worsted cotton yarn. Behold, the finished product:

The weight of the yarn and the use of Mary Jane Hall's method of stitching in the back loop only (which also creates the ribbing!) make this top hang nicely. Here's how the back ended up:

I added a bit of contrast with edging in Berroco Seduce yarn, a gold/brown metallic. It cracks me up to think about yarn being seductive, but whatever, Berroco. Here are some detail shots.
 

I used a surface chain stitch to embellish the straps on the front and back, and handy little stitch to add surface interest. Here's a detail shot of the front.

Great, right? Well, how does it look on an actual person? That's the real test. And I am the guinea pig.

What do you think?

A little droopy in the back, but that wouldn't be the case if this were on a person whose hips were in proportion to the rest of their body. It doesn't have the "flare" effect on me so much as "just making it over."

I'm pretty happy with it. Note to self--there is a definite risk of transparency with crocheted garments. Haha. I'll have to watch out for that next time. Thanks so much to Mr. N for the pictures...I was in a terrible mood after cleaning the junk out of this corner of my work room to take pictures, muttering "grr, no space for anything," "so tired of living in this craphole," etc, but Mr. N got me to smile. He always does.
Thanks for stopping by to see my progress! Crocheted fashion has proven more difficult than I realized, but it's always an adventure. Up next, a dress (yikes!!). Wish me luck!

Friday, January 15, 2010

What is this?


Good question. It's nothing...yet. It's a clue to the new direction I'm taking in my design efforts. I've decided to try my hand at writing some crochet patterns for clothing--a daunting task as crocheted apparel is notoriously unfashionable. Knitting is much better suited to making clothing, with a softer drape and more pleasing texture. Knitting is all well and good, but it's not what I do. I'm a crocheter. A compulsive, fanatical, work-until-your-fingers-have-cramped-into-claws type of crocheter. Not because I'm incredibly eager for the finished product, but simply because I love to do it. As I've already discovered, crochet pattern development is not for the casual hobbyist. It's a bit difficult to realize you made a mistake and have to rip out the 10 rows you've just worked. Fortunately that doesn't faze me. The process is thrilling, and this time I'm really looking forward to how the finished product will turn out. The above is just a sample using scrap yarn. Check back soon to see what it'll be!

Monday, January 4, 2010

Happy 2010!

It being the new year and all, I felt like it was finally time to get around to posting the photo shoot pictures of the spring collection. Thanks to the models, Irena, Brenna, and Eileen, the photographers Kyle and Lauren, the blanket girl (a much needed job on a 40 degree day!) and hair/makeup stylist Emily, and all around helpers Steph and Mr. N! I could NOT have done it without you guys and I appreciate your help so much!












Though the collection didn't turn out anything like the sketches, I'm completely happy with it.


Here are some fun ones of me directing the models:










 Wow, what a fun, exhausting month. Don is down for the count.

Getting closer

Here are some pictures of the final garments at various stages of completion:









Next stop, photo shoot. So excited!

Monday, November 23, 2009

Spring 2010, Part 1



The development process for this collection was difficult. I used materials I've used before, but trying to bring the designs to life showed me more of what I don't know that what I do. Because of that, the designs changed drastically from the sketches. The first top, with a pleated bodice, proved the most difficult, but not until I started working with the silk organza. Working with muslin, the draping came out beautifully:



In the sketches, the pleats go all the way down the bodice, but I really liked the pleating over just the bustline, making the top flare out at the hemline. I decided to keep it that way.


This picture shows the markings I made to help me record the pleats onto a flat pattern. The finished muslin:


I really like how this came out. Unfortunately, that was not the case with the silk. After I completely finished this top in silk, I realized I just couldn't photograph it. Silk organza pleats well, but not on the bias. Now I know! Instead of trying to make it work, I went in a completely new direction. I leaned more heavily on the Frank Lloyd Wright inspiration when creating this top:


The hem is actually even, but my pieces of muslin obviously weren't. The markings on this will be appliqued bias tape. Although I'm not really sure what my "thing" as a designer is, I feel like this looks like me. I'm excited to show you the finished garment. This top will be paired with a high waisted skirt:


The second look also turned out completely different. After I realized the pleating wouldn't work on the bustline, it became apparent that it wouldn't work as a raglan sleeve either (I'm sure it can be done, but with very little time left I didn't want to try), so I started something completely new, continuing the heavy FLW art glass inspiration. It's a wide neck, raglan sleeve cropped shirt with more bias tape surface detail. Here's the muslin to give you a general idea of the shape of the top:


Ignore the wrinkles, please. :) This top will be paired with some high waisted skinny pants that I don't have a picture of because my form doesn't have legs. You'll see them in the final pictures.
Finally, the dress is actually very similar to the sketch. Here's a picture of the muslin to show the shape:




It's very loose and flowy, so not much draping was needed. Very easy. The difficulty came in the surface treatments and additions I'll show you later.
Here's my helper, Don Leon, napping on some patterns under the ironing board:


These last few weeks were exhausting for all of us: Mr. N, Don, and me.


But we made it through.
There you have it, the collection in bland muslin. I assure you the finished product is much more interesting. Check back soon to see the completed garments and pictures from the photo shoot!

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

crunch time

Sorry for the delay, everyone. I've been crazily working toward a deadline, November 16. I realize I'm being cryptic, but most of you know what it is anyway. Once all the crazy blows over I'll post about what I've been doing for the past several weeks. Thanks for sticking with me!

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

sketches

Here are some sketches of the looks I'll be including in the Spring Collection:

It's a bit hard to tell, but the colors will be various shades of sepia, dark brown, and deep purple. The fabric will be silk organza, shantung, and cotten sateen for the pants and skirt. The lines on the bodice and shoulders of the first two looks are pleats.
I've finished the muslin for the first top, and it came out a little different than the picture, but I'm happy with it. It's always interesting to see the real life execution of the ideas in my head. Sometimes they work and sometimes they can only live as a drawing.
Tonight I'll be dying the silk organza shades of sepia. I love to say that garments are "hand dyed" when that really means "a packet of RIT in a bucket in my bathtub." Ahh, high fashion. Thanks for stopping by, I'll keep you updated!